Old-fashioned virtues in London

Frederick’s is in pedestrianised Camden Passage, a cobbled street with antique stalls and continental-style cafés. But when you step into the rather plush eatery, you’re suddenly in a more sedate, enclosed world. It’s discreet, the service is smooth, there are white tablecloths and properly spaced tables. Frederick’s is family-run, a local institution of 50-odd years, … Continued

Granger & Co

There’s an exuberant air at Granger & Co in Kings Cross. They don’t take reservations, so people queue expectantly amid the buzz of the square, which makes the wait easier. The shape of the place is striking. Loosely based on an Italian railway station bar, it is beautifully set up with long glass walls, outer … Continued


Worship at the Grill Jamie Oliver’s parents choose the Barbecoa for the view and their famous son’s food. It even charms a hardened pescatarian. Isn’t it a bit meaty for you?’ was the universal cry when I said I was going to Jamie Oliver’s Barbecoa, an American-style charcoal grill — with me being a longtime … Continued

Ember Yard

Ember Yard isn’t a yard or even an outside space. But the name evokes a dusty, faraway location with exotic overtones. It’s a secret gem in Soho, immediately atmospheric, drawing you into its dimly lit, romantic ambience. I went with a painter who looks at things more carefully. She liked the earthy, rustic décor, low … Continued